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Civil War Recipe Tutorial :
Cauliflower Maccaroni

Original Recipe:
Having removed the outside leaves, and cut off the stalk, wash the
cauliflower, and examine it thoroughly to see if there are any
insects about it. Next lay it for an hour in a pan of cold water.
Then put it into a pot of boiling milk and water that has had a
little fresh butter melted in it.
Whatever scum may float on top of the water must be removed
before the cauliflower goes in. Boil it, steadily, half an hour, or
till it is quite tender. Then take it out, drain it, and cut it into
short sprigs. Have ready three ounces of rich, but not strong
cheese, grated fine.
Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter,
nearly half of the grated cheese, two large table-spoonfuls of cream
or rich milk; and a very little salt and cayenne. Toss or shake it
over the fire, till it is well mixed, and has come to a boil. Then
add the tufts of cauliflower, and let the whole stew together about
five minutes.
When done, put it into a deep dish; strew over the top the
remaining half of the grated cheese, and brown it with a salamander
or a red hot shovel held above the surface. This will be found very
superior to real maccaroni.
Source:
Ladies' Receipt Book by Eliza Leslie, 1847
Modern Day Adaptation:
Orders followed precisely, although we confess we did not "examine
[our cauliflower] thoroughly to see if there are any insects about
it." A little extra protein never hurt anybody, and besides, all the
soaking and boiling would take care of the bugs anyway.
The "salamander" treatment does not require
waving a lizard over the dish but rather that it be put under the
broiler.
Results:
While the taste of this dish was excellent, the consistency of the
vegetable can only be described as "mushy." It is possible that Miss
Leslie intended this for vegetables which had been stored for a
period of time and were therefore dried out. For modern
grocery-bought produce we suggest reducing the boiling time to 15 or
20 minutes. The cheese sauce was superb, clinging to the cauliflower
rather than running off to pool in a morose puddle at the bottom of
the dish. Of course it should be great considering the quantity of
butter, full-fat cheese and real cream involved.
We suspect that these quantities can be modified to suit modern
sensibilities in the matter of fats, but do not omit the cayenne
pepper. It does not make it taste spicy at all but probably helps
stimulate the other flavors. Rated a "10" by all. Oh, and Miss
Leslie does not give a recipe for "real maccaroni" so we really
don't know what to compare this to, nor where the name comes from,
or the extra "c" for that matter.
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