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BROILED PIGEONS
Pigeons
Pepper
Salt
1 tsp. butter
Beaten egg
Plain bread crumbs
Fried bread crumbs or slices (optional)
To be worth the trouble of picking [plucking], must be well grown,
and well fed.
Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear,
slow fire; turn them often, and put a little butter on them.
Garnish with fried bread-crumbs, or sippets; or, when the pigeons
are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, taking care
not to break the skin of the backs or breasts. Season them with
pepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of
water, and tie them close at both ends; so that when they are
brought to table, they bring their sauce with them. Egg and dredge
them well with grated bread (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if
you please); then lay them on the gridiron, and turn them
frequently; if your fire is not very clear, lay them on a sheet of
paper well buttered, to keep them from getting smoked. They are much
better broiled whole.
From The Cook's Oracle by William Kitchiner, MD, New York, 1829
Comment: Here we see signs that not just cooking but papermaking was
a very different thing in the 1800s. To replicate this recipe today
would probably involve the use of a charcoal or gas grill, and it
would be most unwise to use an average sheet of paper as a cooking
surface on one of those devices.
Paper in those days was thick and sturdy indeed, made from rags and
other scraps of cloth rather than wood pulp as is almost universal
nowadays. Cooking was done in front of an open fire in a hearth or
fireplace, so the heat radiated more from the side than from
directly underneath. A "clear fire" was the ideal, but the smokiness
was largely a factor of the type of wood being used and so could not
always be controlled.
Then as now, pigeons used for food were normally raised commercially
and not considered wild game except on the farthest reaches of the
frontier. Cornish hens might be a more practicable substitute
nowadays.
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