BROWN SAUCE

1-2 lb. beef steak
2-3 lb. veal
Scraps of poultry
Carrots
Onions
bunch parsley
Green onions
2 bay leaves
2 cloves, whole
2 champignon mushrooms
Salt


Take a pound or two of steaks, two or three pounds of veal, some pickings of fowl, carrots and onions, put all these into a saucepan with a glass of water, and set it on a brisk fire; when scarcely any moisture remains, put it on a slow fire, that the jelly may take color without burning; and as soon as it is brown, moisten it with stock (or water), add a bunch of parsley and green onions, two bay-leaves, two cloves, and some champignons, salt it well, and set it on the fire for three hours, then strain; dilute a little roux with your liquor, and boil it an hour over a gentle fire, take off all the fat, and run it through a bolting [strain through fine cloth].

From "The Cook's Own Book: Being a Complete Culinary Encyclopedia" by "A Boston Housekeeper" [Mrs. N. K. M. Lee], published Boston, 1832

Comment: The brown sauce is the most important recipe in a proper cook's repertoire, the basis of a vast array of more elaborate saucings as well as a huge number of soups. While Mrs. Lee calls for a "brisk fire" while the majority of the liquid is evaporated away, it is advisable to take care to turn the heat down so as not to let it get so far reduced as to burn to the bottom of the pan. This is of no use for anything and will stink up the kitchen at the very least, and result in the attentions of the fire department at worst. While "steaks" are called for here, the best sauces are traditionally made from the worst and cheapest cuts of meat, or even scraps and leftovers from more elegant cuts.

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