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SAVORY RAGOUT POWDER
1 oz. salt
1/2 oz. ground mustard (dry)
1/4 oz. ground allspice (or 1/8 oz. each of mace and cloves)
1/2 oz. ground black pepper
1/2 oz. dried lemon peel, ground
1/4 oz. ginger
1/4 oz. nutmeg
1/4 oz. cayenne pepper
Pound them patiently, and pass them through a fine hair-sieve;
bottle them for use. The above articles will pound easier and finer,
if they are dried first in a Dutch oven before a very gentle fire,
at a good distance from it. If you give them too much heat, the fine
flavor of them will be presently evaporated, and they will soon get
a strong, rank, empyreumatic* taste.
N. B. Infused in a quart of vinegar or wine, they make a savory
relish for soups, sauces, &c.
The Cook's Oracle by William Kitchiner, MD, New York, 1832
Comment: We are almost tempted to leave a certain word here
undefined, so as to encourage good research habits amongst our
readers, but then again we do not want to remind anyone of bitter
memories of evil fourth-grade teachers who always told you to "Look
it up yourself!" when you asked a tough question. So:
*Empyreumatic: Being or having an odor of burnt organic matter as a
result of decomposition at high temperature. (Webster's Third New
International Dictionary)
Beyond that the recipe is reasonably self-explanatory. Unless one is
making this seasoning mix in commercial quantities or eats ragout on
an almost daily basis, we suggest making only as much as is needed
for a particular recipe, or at least will be used in a fairly short
time. Spices keep their flavor best when whole. Once ground, grated
or pounded in a mortar as called for here, their volatile elements,
the molecules which give them their flavors, start to evaporate
rapidly.
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