CORN CAKE (a.k.a. CORN BREAD)

Filed under :Breads

corn_bread1 pint sour milk (use buttermilk)
2 c. corn (”Indian”) meal
1 c. flour
1 egg
2 tbs. molasses
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking powder (saleratus is obsolete and no longer available)

To a pint of sour milk, two cups of Indian meal, one of flour, one egg, two table-spoonfuls of molasses, a teaspoonful of salt and one of saleratus. Mix it thoroughly, and bake twenty-five minutes in two shallow pans, or thirty-five in a deep one. 

From The Young Housekeeper’s Friend by Mrs. [M. H.] Cornelius, 1863.

Comment: The term “Indian meal” or simply “Indian” was almost universally used for what we now just call “corn meal” for centuries. It is a source of some mystification for linguists who cannot figure out why Americans never adopted the term “maize” for this product like Europe and most of the rest of the world did.  In those places “corn” is a generic term for any grain including barley, wheat, oats, etc.  which can be a source of confusion for readers.  Saleratus, along with potash and pearlash, was about to become obsolete too with the invention of baking powder. These substances, which are alkali in chemistry as well as taste, combined with an acid ingredient (the sour or butter milk used here) to release carbon dioxide to promote rising of the batter during baking.

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GREEN CORN PUDDING

Filed under :Vegetable

corn_pudding12 dozen ears corn
1 tsp. salt
1 tbs. sugar
1 qt. milk
2 eggs, beaten
2-3 tbs. butter

Grease a deep earthen baking dish with butter; grate with a coarse grater 2 dozen ears of corn, selecting such as are of equal ripeness; add tea-spoonful of salt, tablespoonful white sugar, a quart of milk, and lastly, 2 eggs well beaten; lay a piece of butter rather larger than an egg on top of all, put it into a slow oven, bake 4 hours; if the oven is too quick [hot] it will make the pudding curdle; when done it should be nicely brown all over, and the consistency of warm mush. Good for tea or dinner; may be eaten with sugar, but a little butter is better.

From The Economical Cook-Book by Elizabeth Nicholson, 1865.

Comment: Here we see a clear indication of the complete change that has come over the corn-growing process since the advent of large commercial agribusiness. In the 19th century corn was simply corn, without the distinction that exists today between “sweet corn” intended for human consumption and “field corn” grown to be fed to animals. (We will leave varieties intended for industrial uses like corn syrup or biofuels out of the discussion entirely.)

So “green corn” here is not intended to mean that which is under-ripe, which would produce nothing but an inedible mess if cooked and severe indigestion if eaten. The ears should be fully grown, fresh and full of juice. The longer they age after ripening the harder and more dried out the kernels become, setting it on a path which would lead to the grist mill and a future as corn meal, hominy, grits, or dried cracked corn.

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CORN AND TOMATOES

Filed under :Vegetable

corn_and_tomatoFresh corn
Tomatoes
Salt
Pepper
Sugar
Butter

Take equal quantities of green corn cut from the cob, and tomatoes sliced and peeled. Stew together half an hour; season with pepper, salt, and a very little sugar. Stew fifteen minutes longer, and stir in a great lump of butter. Five minutes later, pour out and serve.

Common Sense in the Household by Marion Harland, New York, 1871:

Comment: Do not be confused by the term “green corn.” This recipe dates to the time when corn was simply corn, before different varieties were bred of which some were fed to animals and others known as “sweet corn” were intended for human tables. When corn was just fully ripened, fresh and juicy, it was used in recipes like this. That which was left on the stalk past this point began to dry out and could be either taken to the mill for grinding into corn meal or preserved in the form of hominy. When fully dried it was then considered winter food for either people or livestock.

This is something of an oddity in that we know of no recipes today that are simply corn and tomatoes cooked together. Corn and lima beans, yes; this we know as succotash. Tomatoes and, well, nearly everything else, sure. Corn and tomatoes? Not so much. While these recipes are found in books intended for civilian life, we have no doubt that something very much like this would have been eaten by troops in the field who passed through an area at the right time of year for vegetables to be ripe or close to it. Farmers did not like to see armies of either side passing anywhere nearby for precisely this reason.

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