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| Posted: Wed May 21st, 2008 02:47 am |
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1st Post |
Dutchman Dick
Member
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Does anybody sell a ready-made former for .58 caliber paper cartridges? If I had access to a lathe, I could make one, but I found out that company policy at my new job does not encourage "government projects" (one of the few things I miss about my old job... ).
For that matter, is there anyone on the forum who would be willing to make one for me for a reasonable price? It should be about 8" long, .580" in diameter. One end should be slightly concave, while the other end should resemble the "business end" of a Minie ball (sans grease grooves). The 2 different ends are so I can make 2 different styles of cartridge (1855 and 1861), to see which one I like better.
The 1855 cartridge used 3 pieces of paper: a stiff inner powder cylinder with a wrapper of thinner paper, both rolled together and one end folded and pasted and pressed into the concave end of the former, then the 2-layer powder cylinder and the bullet were wrapped in a final outer layer of thinner paper, the bullet end tied shut, and the powder added and the powder end of the paper folded over. The idea behind the stiff inner cylinder was to give some sort of resistance to make it easier to tear the paper wrapper away from the Minie ball prior to loading it into the gun.
The 1861 cartridge was less complex and therefore less expensive and time consuming to make (neccessary due to the expenses and logistics of the war), and was simply 2 pieces cut to the pattern of the outermost layer of the 1855 cartridge. One would be rolled around the former and the end tied shut at the "bullet-shaped" end of the former, then the end of the cylinder (with the former still in it) would be inserted into the hollow base of the bullet, and the bullet and powder cylinder wrapped in the second piece of paper. The bullet end would then be tied shut, and powder added and the opposite end folded as in the 1855 cartridge.
Yeah, I know, seems like a lot of work and bother, but (a), I like to experiment, especially when it comes to historical stuff, and (b) they'd make great quick-loads for hunting!
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| Posted: Wed May 21st, 2008 09:04 pm |
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2nd Post |
Johan Steele
Life NRA,SUVCW # 48,Legion 352
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I seem to recall there was an individual on the Authentic Campaigner who was selling one. For myself I use a wooden dowel rod. IIRC it cost me about $1 at my local hardware store and I cut it to length, notched it appropriately and rounded one end.
Below is an article that may be useful to you.
Making Authentic Cartridges
by John Wedeward
© 1990, John Wedeward
All Rights Reserved
To make a cartridge that adheres to the appearance of an original, you first have to start with the correct materials:
1. First is the "former". A dowel rod works well for this purpose. It should be the size of the bore for a rifled musket. A 1 /X" or 5/8" dowel rod may be adjusted to adhere to the proper size by either wrapping tape around it or by sanding it. One end should then be shaped to imitate the minie ball in the cartridge.
2. Common brown wrapping paper is the proper material for making the cartridge tubes. Parcel Post mailing paper works well. Grocery sack paper will not work as it is too thick. This should then be cut into the shape of a trapezoid, measuring 4.12 inches in height, 4.0 inches on the long base, and 2.5 inches on the short base.
3. Almost all cartridges used during the Civil War were tied with flax thread, though cotton thread did see limited use. Flax thread may be obtained at local shoe or leather repair shops.
4. The minie ball can be simulated with either a small cotton ball or just a sheet of wadded up toilet paper.
To actually make a cartridge, first wrap the outer trapezoid paper tightly around the "former", or dowel rod. The paper should extend beyond the end of the dowel rod by about 1/3" to 1/2".
The cartridge tube can be choked in two ways: The original way is by using a choking string and toggle. The other way is by just twisting. The choking string may be "made" by twisting 4 or 5 cartridge threads, approximately 9 inches in length, fastened to the edge of a table, at the right hand of the workman" (1861 Ordinance Manual). The choking string is then given one turn around the projecting end of the cylinder and pulled to "choke" the cylinder between the end of the dowel rod and the end of the cylinder. Fold down the projecting paper inside-out, flat upon the top of the cylinder. Remove the choking string. Finally, place the cartridge thread at the choked end and make two complete turns around the choked "neck" with the string, pull tight, and tie in a single half-hitch (overhand knot). For making an elongated ball cartridge, now cut the thread at this point.
If the tube is to be choked by twisting, do so in a careful clockwise direction. Tie the same as the choking method. Now, using a fingernail or sharp object, separate the flattened, twisted part beyond the choke by dividing the sheets. Next, push up the separated paper, leaving it flat upon the top of the cylinder.
Remove the rolled cartridge cylinder from the dowel rod and insert the substance selected to simulate the projectile and ram this down to produce a fake bullet. Insert the black powder in the open end of the tube. Pinch the empty remaining tube shut between the forefinger and the thumb and shake while squeezing down further on the trapped powder. Fold over the pinched end of the tube and shake again while squeezing down further on the trapped powder. Next, fold over the
pinched end of the tube, pressing down on the powder, and strike or smash this end flat. The side with the "slant" of the trapezoid showing should be up. Holding the extension to the right, fold down the top "third" towards the body, just over to the halfway point. Then fold the bottom "third" up to cover the other part, reducing the pinched tube extension to less than half of its original width. Now, carefully fold this "tail" over the end of the cylinder and fold down along the other side of the tube. It is best to again press this bottom part firmly on a flat surface to sharpen the creases. Also, pinch the "tail" as it begins to lay along the tube so that it will remain flush on the cartridge. The cartridge is now ready to be packaged.
Sources:
1840 Ordinance Manual
1861 Ordinance Manual
Edwards, William B. Civil War Guns. Harrisburg, Pa.: The Stackpole Co., 1958.
Lewis, Berkeley. Small Arms and Ammunition in the United States Service. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution, 1956.
Phillips, Stanely. Bullets Used in the Civil War 1861-1865. Laurel, Md.: Wilson's Specialty co., 1971.
Scott, H. L Military Dictionary. N.Y.: Van Nostrand and Co., 1864
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| Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 07:29 pm |
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3rd Post |
Dutchman Dick
Member
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I found the perfect thing in the form of a $4.00 pair of drumsticks. I took my vernier calipers into the music store and measured pairs of sticks until I found a cheap pair of 5A size sticks, ONE of which was exactly .580" in diameter. Cut it off, hollowed out one end, shaped the other similar to a Minie ball (that way I can use the same former for both early and late-style cartridges), and now all I need to do is make myself a "table" like the one shown on the "Lazyjacks" website (the table incorporates a packaging "box" for wrapping bundles of cartridges and caps, and a choking string for making the cartridges), and I'll be in business! Last edited on Fri May 30th, 2008 07:30 pm by Dutchman Dick
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